Surfing offers us opportunities with each surf session to be flexible, open to both new and old feelings, and non-judgmental of our personal surfing experience. Tuning into the ocean environment that you are considering paddling out in is the starting point. Take time to study the conditions at hand, after you’ve heard the swell and wind report for that day. Always “know before you go”, as the Kauai Lifeguards are so good in reinforcing to visitors to their island. Once the report sounds doable, then spend a good amount of time watching the waves. How are they breaking? Soft, mushy and shouldering for easier takeoffs, more beginner level. Or are they standing up fast, lipping over with a quick wall breaking down the line? These waves are for more experienced surfers at an intermediate level or more. Choose carefully which session you decide to surf in. My father in law John used to tell his three teenage sons “It’s easier to stay out of trouble than get out of trouble”. This applies to the ocean too.
Also, consider what level of surfer is out? Are they experienced surfers hitting the lip, doing cutbacks into the waves, floating over the closeouts and pulling into the barrels? Only paddle out with this level of surfer if you’re at that level or getting close to it. Always give respect to the locals, if so. Letting them take the best waves and you take the leftovers. This respect for locals will take you far, maybe even getting you called into a wave by one of them. Choose those sessions when your level of surfer is out. You’ll feel more in your comfort zone and able to relax more in your session. From this place you can progress and work on building new surfing skills. These sessions simply call you out to surf!
Now you’ve decided it’s time and the right session to paddle out to catch some waves. Here’s when your openness to what you will experience and feel this day is offered to you. Always bring your positive, non-judgmental attitude with you. Allow yourself to be free to whatever the ocean is going to teach you today. Sometimes you have to pay a few dues so you can learn what not to do; such as not bailing your board, for you, your board and fellow surfers safety. Or knowing where the riptides are so you can avoid them (beginners to advanced beginners). Learn from these sessions and be acceptant of the lesson taught. Other days you are given a gift of adrenaline, joy and playfulness. Feel the delightful flow and exhilaration on these special days. Ride the waves with an open heart! Milk these sessions for all they can teach you. These are the magical surfing sessions that will leave an imprint on your mind.
Depending on conditions and what season you are surfing in requires personal flexibility. Fall, winter and early spring conditions are typically dominated by bigger and stronger swells than late spring and summer. Knowing this is the seasonal tendency, be flexible with your decision to surf or possibly the alternative of walking out and watching more experienced surfing. We as humans tend to make a decision and want to stick to it, no matter what. This doesn’t apply with surfing. You might have driven down from the city to get a surf in, but upon arrival, you realize the swell and waves are way out of your comfort zone and skill level. These days let your intuition guide you! Maybe it’s a day to simply observe and learn from watching and being present. Or perhaps you’ve scored and then ready yourself to paddle out. Flexibility, openness, and non-judgment expand your personal surfing opportunities. Now let’s go Surf! Get started with our women’s surf camp. #surfing #OregonCoast